Along my way to Baton Rouge I rode past several beautiful plantation homes set far back from the road, driveways lined with live oaks like a scene from Gone with the Wind. I wondered about their history, who lives in them now. I stopped at the end of a driveway to make some adjustments when a SUV pulls up. It's the owner of one of these homes. "Would I like a cold drink?". Always say yes.
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| Linell in her natural habitat. |
Lynell Price is a trim woman about my age who is married to a successful sugar cane farmer. The place is surrounded by it and I have been passing cane fields for several hours now. Their home has been in the family for generations and is over 100 years old. I'm afraid I used my "Shucks, I am an architect" status and wrangled an invitation inside as I really wanted to tour it. She was gracious to do so despite her limited time. The whole visit lasted only 20 minutes. Inside was a sanctuary from the heat that was beyond my expectations. They had worked with a well known architect who specialized in plantation homes to build an addition. Heavy timber construction, polished plank floors, spaces that flowed from one to another. It was furnished exquisitely with a museum full of imposing cases, cabinets, collections of porcelain, etchings and keepsakes. Each piece was a work of art in itself. She was the repository for family heirlooms hence her home was entirely authentic. I was supplied with the promised cold drinks and soon was on my way. While a short but sweet visit but I do have a standing invite for a return visit some day.
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| The House that sugar cane built. |
Approaching Baton Rouge means heavier traffic, more stuff to negotiate. I had arranged a warm showers host on the south side of the city. When I am in the city proper, I am engulfed by traffic and people, the sidewalks are jammed, traffic is stopped. I asked two passing girls why. Its's homecoming for Southern Christian University. The largest (or maybe oldest?) black university in the country. It is a zoo. Jacked up cars, glittering chrome wheels are passing by or stuck in traffic each with its own body penetrating bass line of rap on roof top speakers. Murphy and I finally give up riding and walk along passing a stream of folks who are partying and out to be seen.
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| Murphy working the owner of the rib BBQ stand for scraps |
I encountered some make shift BBQ stands with black steel cookers burning flumes of wood smoke. I give up trying to make headway and decided to sit down for some really fine slow cooked ribs, beans and potato salad and just try to stay out of the way. Eventually I make my way through despite my google maps being inaccessible due to the overloaded cell phone network. Just went by instinct and that quaint historical item known as a paper map.
I am headed to the home of Samson, a Louisiana State Student who is the only guy who said "Sure I got room in my backyard". He texted he may not be home because of the game and may be too drunk to talk anyhow. Enroute, I meet another cyclist named Max loaded with saddlebags too. Even though we are 5 miles away it turns out he is headed to the same house. We finally arrive well after dark but shortly after we arrive, Samson rolls up on his bike to greet us. He is pumped but still sober. His house is basically a crash pad. Another cyclist is already there. People are coming and going. We all end up in the living room watching the sole item in the house that is not second hand, a giant big screen TV. The game starts and I learned just how rabid these LSU fans are.
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Lets get this party started. Samson is the guy with glasses. He is
a civil engineering student that is sure to finally give engineers
a bad reputation. |
Samson is like John Belushi clad in sparkling purple and gold satin shorts with purple and gold suspenders. He sends someone out for more beer and brings out a huge bag of tangerine like fruit that came from someone's backyard tree. Fortunately, LSU clobbers Ole Miss so the mood stays bright all night. These are all twenty-somethings so I try my best to fit in. I feel like a dinosaur.
The next morning, I head out to see the sights. I decided to first visit the LSU campus to see the where all this took place last night. It looked like a war zone. Piles of drinking debris everywhere. Massive quantities of alcoholic beverages had been consumed. It's 9 am and I see no sign of student life. Finally after picking my way around for an hour I spot my first one. A Chinese exchange student who obviously was somehow in isolation last night. Armies of clean up gangs descend on the place while I am there and the campus is soon respectable enough for visiting parents.
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Navy Surplus USS Kidd. It actually had a distnguished career.
Participated in several battles including Okinawa and was struck by
a kamikazee that put her out of the rest of WWII. She was named
after Admiral Kidd who commanded the USS Arizona (and was
killed) when sunk in the Pearl harbor attack. |
I wanted to see one thing in Baton Rouge. They have on the waterfront a vintage Destroyer named the USS Kidd that has been restored to its WWII condition. It's more authentically restored than any other in the world of which there are only four examples left. To me the WWII junkie, it was very interesting and you are allowed to crawl around on your own for as long as you like. I asked how it came to Baton Rouge. Apparently it had been set aside by the Navy as a possible Memorial ship. Some local backers for such a memorial bought it for $200,000 in the 80's. They formed an association and have been restoring it ever since. I would rather have one of these babies for a couple hundred grand in my backyard than a lot of things I can think of.
I am now within eyesight of my end destination. New Orleans is only 70 miles away. The River's End is another 70 miles south to the tip of the delta. I have been talking to Sue daily as our plan is for her to start her retrieval mission, driving down from Minneapolis to overtake me before New Orleans. We will travel together, with Sue ranging ahead and taking on my gear and this pesky dog that has been following me for the last 2,000 miles. Thus relieved of my load it will be a cakewalk the rest of the way. I am looking forward to seeing Sue, It has been a long time.
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