Chapter 14 Burlington to Keokuk, IA, Sue Joins the Team, Snake Alley

My lovely wife Sue drove down from Minneapolis and arrived in Burlington in the late afternoon to discover her sun burnt, grimy husband lounging around the waterfront tossing sticks into the muddy waters for her equally scruffy dog. We are probably more happy to see her than her us in our disheveled condition.
She is just in time as the temperatures have soared into the nineties and tonight we are heading to the air conditioned comfort the first motel room of the trip.  So far, I seem to live a charmed existence as once again I escape the ravages of mother nature.  That evening the skies pour forth a torrential rain storm that floods the streets stalling cars and trapping us in our restaurant for some time.  Tenting in some seedy locale would have been a disaster.  The next day the temperatures are equally oppressive and I quickly scrap any plans to bike or camp.  Instead we see the sights of Burlington which we soon learn is the home of the world's crookedest street called snake street.  Sure enough as proclaimed by Ripley's Believe it or not we find it.  I recall San Francisco has such a street but evidently this one is even crooked-er. The plaque explains it was a collaboration of a local city official, an landscape architect and a road contractor  back in the 1880's I guess just to see if they could do it.

Sue descending Snake Alley

When I finally set out the next day down river the game has changed. I am not being a purist on the issue of completing every mile self supported. Sue is hauling all my gear including Murphy so I am able to travel free of my baggage. While I am doing this Sue reconnoiters ahead by car and sets up camp at the next campground. En route she calls to report the campground we have selected is full of guys with sleeveless shirts and beer cans permanently affixed in one hand. They turn out to be real nice guys helping her with the tent and invite her to join them. She demurely declines. The next town down the road is Fort Madison.  Fort Madison is named after the first fort  located there establishing an official american presence on the upper Mississippi after the recent acquisition from France as part of the Louisiana Purchase.
Built in 1813 it lasted 5 years before being abandoned and burned.  During this time it weathered several hostile Indian attacks and several soldiers lost their lives.  Interestingly, it was not the Indians that caused the abandonment but corrupt government contractors from St. Louis that supplied rotten food to the post leading to the garrison having nothing to eat.  So they left.  Corruption is nothing new. Today there is a replica fort complete with costumed re-enactors who relate this story.

Fort Madison

Life in 1813

"real" time.  Ft. Madison is also home to the Shaeffer Pen company where the first pump fountain pen was invented.  Unfortunately, Sheaffer was acquired by pen giant Bic who gradually closed the place down.  No doubt because no one actually writes anymore.
The day's ride ends in Keokuk, Iowa.  I had to ride along highway 61 for most of the day which while not necessarily unsafe due to the shoulder it is not pleasant.
If any of you find your self in Keokuk, I have a recommendation for a restaurant which for those who know me know I look for value instead of artistically arranged green sprigs and drizzled sauces.  Ogo's  restaurant and buffet had a lot full of cars for a reason.  For $7.99 they offer a buffet of home cooked eats that are better than most.  In fact, the chicken is award winning and tastier than the Colonel's. It was clearly a favorite with the locals and based on their physiques they come here often.

The chow line at Ogo's

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